Fat Cat's Cafe

originally published: Thursday, October 14, 2004

My cat, Pudge, is huge. He's pushing 20 pounds, and if he gets much bigger, I'm afraid to pick him up without one of those back support belts.

He's been on a diet for years, and while he hasn't gained any weight, he hasn't lost any either.

But after seeing pictures of the gargantuan cats covering the walls at Fatcat's Cafe at Port San Luis, I realized he's got a long way to go before he's a true fat cat.

The family restaurant is centered around the huge felines, and with the four-page menu packed with seafood, breakfast and burgers, even fussy Pudge could find something he would like.

We stopped in for a late dinner on a Saturday evening and found Fatcat's bustling.

LOOKING AROUND: Diners can enjoy a picturesque panoramic view of Port San Luis, complete with moored fishing boats. We chose to soak up the views from the outside seating, with portable heaters keeping us warm. Large windows allow customers at booths and bar seating to watch the sea.

OPTIONS, OPTIONS: We had a hard time choosing what to order and part of the problem was breakfast is served anytime, and the omelettes, french toast and eggs Benedict were tempting us. My eyes were also fixated on the amazing-beyond-description Old West Cinnamon Rolls, fresh from Pismo Beach.

There is also a full slate of sandwiches (such as turkey, BLT, patty melts) and burgers (the avocado and ortega burgers looked mouth-watering).

Dinner options include seafood galore with calamari, clams, scallops, prawns, snapper and more. Specials like mahi mahi tacos and an open-faced lobster sandwiches were also available.

I think you now understand our dilemma.

THE APPETIZER: We had to try the onion rings ($4.50/$6.75), billed on the menu as "the biggest and the best on the Central Coast." They were definitely the biggest (I could have worn them as bracelets) but the batter was bland. Dipping them in ketchup and/or ranch dressing gave them the necessary spice.

BREAKFAST FOR DINNER? My wife couldn't ignore her craving for an omelette, so she had the Avocado and Bacon ($9.40). The menu noted it was made with two eggs, but there were at least four in the massive creation filled to capacity with chopped bacon and topped with a whole avocado, halved and sliced. Also on the plate was a large portion of home-fried potatoes with onions and bell peppers and her choice of toast, an English muffin. The rich omelette filled her up both that night and at breakfast the next day.

THE OTHER DINER: I wasn't in the mood for fish, so I had the sauteed Basil Chicken ($14.45), chunks of chicken cooked with butter, garlic, mushrooms, green onions and white wine finished with a cream sauce. The flavor mix was wonderful, with neither the mushrooms nor the onions overpowering the smooth cream sauce. A good-size salad, a side of vegetables and a choice of rice pilaf, baked potato or fettucini is included with the meal. The veggies looked and tasted like they were from the freezer but the rice was mild and mixed well with the cream sauce from the saute.

DESSERT? With our take-out boxes already packed, we had to pass up the homemade dessert -- graham cracker crust, cheese filling and boysenberry topping. It's first on our list for the next visit.

SERVICE CHECK: Service was a little slow, but I chalk that up to a unexpected deluge of customers for a late Saturday night. The waiter was quick to replace the side dish he mistakenly delivered, and my soda was refilled when empty.

PUDGE REVISITED: In case you're curious, I added Pudge's photo to the wall of fat cats. He the black and white one on the board near the restrooms. Next time you're at Fat Cats, you be the judge -- is he fat enough?

-- Matt Sterling, The Tribune

The scene: Oceanfront dining without the high prices

The cuisine: Diner fare plus seafood galore